DETAILED STRUCTURE OF THE BREAKING WAVE

The structure of the breaking wave is clarified by showing that the free surface of a two-dimensional wave can be divided into three regions. These regions are distinguished by comparing the magnitude of acceleration for each of the particles on the free surface with the magnitude of acceleration for the particles due to gravity. The regions characterize the three basic features of the breaking wave.

• Corporate Authors:

  American Geophysical Union

  2100 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
  Washington, DC  United States  20037
• Authors:
  • Price, R K
• Publication Date: 1970-9-20

Media Info

• Features: References;
• Pagination: p. 5276-8
• Serial:
  • Journal of Geophysical Research
  • Volume: 75
  • Issue Number: 27
  • Publisher: American Geophysical Union

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Overtopping; Water waves; Wave motion
• Subject Areas: Design; Hydraulics and Hydrology; Marine Transportation;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00032147
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: Engineering Index
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: Apr 21 1972 12:00AM