THE LIMITING HEIGHT OF OCEAN WATERS

A mathematical model is formulated that treats the breaking of an irregular ocean wave. The boundary condition for breaking is taken to be that the downward particle acceleration at the wave crest is equal to that of gravity. Solutions are obtained for the case of constant steepness which is taken to be representative of the equilibrium range discussed by Phillips. The solutions indicate that a steepness greater than 1/7 is possible and that the steepness required for breaking decreases as the frequency bandwidth of component waves increases. Laboratory measurements of breaking waves are described. The experimental results give steepness greater than 1/7 in some cases and are found to vary with frequency bandwidth in a manner similar to that predicted by theory.

• Corporate Authors:

  Massachusetts Institute of Technology

  Department of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering
  Cambridge, MA  United States  02139
• Authors:
  • Sellars, F H
• Publication Date: 1967-6

Media Info

• Pagination: 42 p.

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Measurement; Ocean waves; Wave height; Wave measurement; Waves
• Old TRIS Terms: Wave theory
• Subject Areas: Design; Marine Transportation;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00027044
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
• Report/Paper Numbers: 67-10
• Contract Numbers: MA-2710, DSR-70098
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: Feb 14 1973 12:00AM