LABORATORY INVESTIGATION OF WAVE BREAKING. PART II. DEEP WATER WAVES
This study represents the first known attempt to examine in some detail the flow dynamics of the terminal growth and breaking of periodic surface waves in deep water, under controlled and reproducible laboratory conditions. The work was considered a necessary preliminary to future studies of storm wave breaking, a phenomenon of considerable engineering importance that has received little scientific attention. In the present study, a tape-controlled servo-paddle system produced single-frequency, deep water wave trains, which were laterally converged to the breaking point within a tapered channel. Using high-response elevation and velocity sensors, profiles and internal velocity fields of growing waves were determined as functions of time and distance before and after breaking.
Scripps Institution of OceanographyAdvanced Ocean Engineering Laboratory
La Jolla, CA USA 92037
- Van Dorn, W G
- Pazan, S E
- Publication Date: 1975-6
- Pagination: 113 p.
- TRT Terms: Ocean waves; Rayleigh waves; Water waves
- Uncontrolled Terms: Breaking waves
- Old TRIS Terms: Surface wave effects
- Subject Areas: Design; Hydraulics and Hydrology; Marine Transportation;
- Accession Number: 00127577
- Record Type: Publication
- Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
- Report/Paper Numbers: AOEL-71 Final Rpt.
- Contract Numbers: N00014-69-A0200-6012
- Files: TRIS
- Created Date: Nov 18 1975 12:00AM