LABORATORY INVESTIGATION OF WAVE BREAKING. PART II. DEEP WATER WAVES

This study represents the first known attempt to examine in some detail the flow dynamics of the terminal growth and breaking of periodic surface waves in deep water, under controlled and reproducible laboratory conditions. The work was considered a necessary preliminary to future studies of storm wave breaking, a phenomenon of considerable engineering importance that has received little scientific attention. In the present study, a tape-controlled servo-paddle system produced single-frequency, deep water wave trains, which were laterally converged to the breaking point within a tapered channel. Using high-response elevation and velocity sensors, profiles and internal velocity fields of growing waves were determined as functions of time and distance before and after breaking.

  • Corporate Authors:

    Scripps Institution of Oceanography

    Advanced Ocean Engineering Laboratory
    La Jolla, CA  USA  92037
  • Authors:
    • Van Dorn, W G
    • Pazan, S E
  • Publication Date: 1975-6

Media Info

  • Pagination: 113 p.

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00127577
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
  • Report/Paper Numbers: AOEL-71 Final Rpt.
  • Contract Numbers: N00014-69-A0200-6012
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: Nov 18 1975 12:00AM