Determination of the energy density of ocean surface waves as a function of both frequency and direction is of practical importance. With varying degrees of success several methods of measurement and analysis have been tried for this purpose in the past and their limitations should encourage the development of new techniques. Measurements are of two types: the direct measurements from within the wave field and remote measurements from without using light or radio waves. Direct measurements may be of array type or buoy type. In an array similar quantities are measured at several horizontally separated points. The highest directional resolution ever obtained to date for ocean waves appears to have been through the use of a radio backscatter technique. Several methods of analysis are used for estimating directional spectra from measurements. These are the direct Fourier transform, parameterized estimation, amplitude and phase detection technique, discrete wave train analysis, and data adaptive techniques. With sparse data as from an array of a few gages the parameterized estimation technique gives better results than the direct Fourier transform method. Data adaptive techniques such as the Maximum Likelihood Method and maximum Entropy Method can provide high resolution for directional spectra.

  • Supplemental Notes:
    • Prepared in cooperation with California Univ., Berkeley, Contract DACW72-68-C-0016. Availability: Pub. in Proceedings of the International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, ASCE, New Orleans, La., 9-11 Sep 74, p669-688.
  • Corporate Authors:

    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

    Woods Hole, MA  United States 

    Office of Naval Research

    Department of the Navy, 800 North Quincy Street
    Arlington, VA  United States  22217

    Coastal Engineering Research Center

    Vicksburg, MI  United States 

    University of California, Berkeley

    Berkeley, CA  United States  94720
  • Authors:
    • Panicker, N N
  • Publication Date: 1974

Media Info

  • Pagination: 25 p.

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00084870
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
  • Report/Paper Numbers: WHOI-74-78 Tech. Rpt., WHOI-Contrib-3391
  • Contract Numbers: N00014-74-C-0262
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: May 19 1975 12:00AM