STANDING WAVES ON BEACHES

Simultaneous measurements of run-up spectra and nearshore wave spectra associated with standing waves have been made on a natural beach. Digital wave staffs and bottom-mounted pressure sensors were placed in a line at various distances offshore from a digital run-up meter. The run-up meter, which measured the position of the edge of the water, consisted of a series of electrical contacts suspended above the beach face and spaced 30 cm apart. Because of the possible influence of nonlinear interactions on the spectra, bicoherence was estimated, and the frequency range appropriate to a linearized model was defined. (Modified author abstract)

  • Supplemental Notes:
    • Revision of report dated 11 Feb 74. Also available in Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 79 No. 21, pp 3065-3071, 20 July 1974.
  • Corporate Authors:

    Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge

    Coastal Studies Institute
    Baton Rouge, LA  USA 

    Office of Naval Research

    Department of the Navy, 800 North Quincy Street
    Arlington, VA  USA  22217
  • Authors:
    • Suhayda, J N
  • Publication Date: 1974-4-16

Media Info

  • Pagination: 10 p.

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00072429
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
  • Report/Paper Numbers: TR-167 Tech. Rpt.
  • Contract Numbers: N00014-69A-0211-0003
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: Nov 12 1974 12:00AM