A SPECTRAL TRANSFER MODEL OF OCEAN WAVE SPECTRA. I. FORMULATION

A one-dimensional spectral transfer equation is developed for ocean surface waves in the presence of non-uniform surface currents. The formalism is phenomenological and includes several parameters which are determined by comparison with data. The model contains phenomenological descriptions of wave breaking, wind generation and amplification, radiation stress, viscous damping, capillary effects, wave-wave interaction, non-linear wave group velocities and convective and refraction terms. The free parameters are determined by fitting the model to the Pierson-Stacy representation of a fully developed sea. Numerical calculations are carried out following wave packets along trajectories in k,x space. The effects of wave reflections and trappings by moving current patterns are included. (Author)

  • Corporate Authors:

    Physical Dynamics Incorporated

    Berkeley, CA  USA 
  • Authors:
    • THOMSON, J A
    • West, B J
  • Publication Date: 1973-5

Media Info

  • Pagination: 103 p.

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00057055
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
  • Report/Paper Numbers: PB-72-029 Tech Rpt
  • Contract Numbers: F30602-72-C-0494
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: Jul 31 1974 12:00AM