SPECIFICATION OF THE WIND DISTRIBUTION IN THE MARINE BOUNDARY LAYER FOR WAVE FORECASTING

The operational application of sophisticated spectral ocean wave specification models to wave forecasting requires that an adequate meteorological input to these models consist of a specification of the wind distribution in the marine surface boundary layer. This study demonstrates how this requirement can be satisfied in a computerized objective format routinely available meteorological data and prognostic fields. Wave generation theory is employed to develop a quantitative formulation for the effects of atmospheric stability upon the development of the wave spectrum. In terms of this stability dependent spectral growth formulation, the effects of stability on wave generation are found to be significant and compare well with observational studies of the dependence of wave height and whitecap production on air-sea temperature difference. A simple model of the non-neutral, baroclinic planetary boundary layer over a sea surface described in terms of an internally prescribed roughness parameter is derived. The model is shown to provide a suitable framework for the diagnosis of the marine surface boundary layer wind distribution from prognostic fields of sea level pressure, air temperature and sea surface temperature. The model is consistent as the surface is approached, with a surface boundary layer model constructed around the similarity profile forms that are shown to be applicable, at least under active wave generating conditions, to the flow near the sea surface. Finally, it is shown how these models can be objectively applied to ships' weather observations and routine prognostic fields to satisfy the requirements of wave hindcasting and forecasting. (Author)

• Corporate Authors:

  New York University, Bronx

  Geophysical Sciences Laboratory
  Bronx, NY  United States 
• Authors:
  • Cardone, V J
• Publication Date: 1969-12

Media Info

• Features: References;
• Pagination: 131 p.

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Electromagnetic spectrum; Water waves; Weather forecasting; Wind waves
• Old TRIS Terms: Wave forecasting; Wave generators
• Subject Areas: Hydraulics and Hydrology; Marine Transportation; Operations and Traffic Management;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00054187
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: National Maritime Research Center, Galveston
• Report/Paper Numbers: GSL-TR-69-1
• Contract Numbers: Nonr-285(57), N62306-68-C-0249
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: May 7 1974 12:00AM