AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF BREAKING-WAVE PRESSURES

Tests were conducted to gain more information concerning the shock pressures created by water breaking against vertical barriers. These wave pressures were studied using small-scale oscillatory waves in a flume fitted with a beach slope and test wall. The variation of pressure with both time and position on the wall was determined for several wave heights, wave periods, water depths, and beach slopes. The characteristics of the wave at the point of breaking were also studied in order to make a comparison between waves breaking on an unobstructed beach and on a beach obstructed by a wall. Although, it might be expected that a barrier on the beach would have a great effect on the breaking waves, the data showed the effect to be negligible. The depth of water in which the wave would break on an unobstructed beach is slightly greater than the depth of water at the wall which would cause the same wave to break and produce maximum shock pressures. The wave height at breaking for both the obstructed and the unobstructed beach was found to be the same. (Author)

• Corporate Authors:

  U.S. Army Waterways Experiment Station

  3909 Halls Ferry Road
  Vicksburg, MS  United States  39180-6199
• Authors:
  • Garcia Jr, W J
• Publication Date: 1968-9

Media Info

• Features: References;
• Pagination: 105 p.

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Force; Water waves; Wave measurement; Wave motion; Waves
• Uncontrolled Terms: Breaking waves
• Old TRIS Terms: Wave action; Wave forces on structures; Wave slope measurement
• Subject Areas: Hydraulics and Hydrology; Marine Transportation; Terminals and Facilities;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00054057
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: National Maritime Research Center, Galveston
• Report/Paper Numbers: H-68-1
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: May 7 1974 12:00AM