On the Availability of Swell Observation by Radar


Wave disasters have been caused since long ago by swells which are called Yorimawarinami on the coast of Toyama Wan, and predicting the swells is important to prevent wave disasters. But it is difficult to predict the swells precisely by numerical wave prediction only, therefore the authors consider swell prediction system based on wave observation. It is investigated on the availability of swell observation by radar in coastal waters. The results of the investigation are as follows: (1) It is possible to catch wave crest lines of swells with significant wave period of 10 seconds or more and significant wave height of 1 meter or more, clearly by radar in coastal waters. (2) It has become clear that a cause of phenomena of swell height increasing in a certain water area off the coast of Ebie is that the swells gather together as a result of refraction due to coastal topography. (3) There is a possibility of observing swell’s beat with long period more than several minutes by radar.


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  • Accession Number: 01688558
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: Japan Science and Technology Agency (JST)
  • Files: TRIS, JSTAGE
  • Created Date: Jul 1 2018 3:01PM