AIRY WAVE THEORY AND BREAKER HEIGHT PREDICTION
The authors examine the applicability of linear airy wave theory to evaluate wave breaker heights. A new relationship is deduced from which the breaker height can be predicted from the deep water wave parameters (wave height and wave period). The theoretical development is set forth and comparison is made with solitary wave theory. The relationship established here is successful over the entire practical range of wave steepness values. It can also replace the empirical curve given by Munk for the intermediate range of wave slope values.
- Pub. in Proceedings of Coastal Engineering Conference, Vancouver, B.C. (Canada), 10-14 Jul 72, p405-418, chpt20.
Oregon State University, CorvallisDepartment of Oceanography
Corvallis, OR United States 97331
- Komar, Paul D
- Gaughan, M K
- Publication Date: 1972
- Pagination: 15 p.
- TRT Terms: Curve fitting; Graphics; Mathematical prediction; Ocean waves; Overtopping; Wave height; Waves
- Identifier Terms: National Sea Grant Program; U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
- Old TRIS Terms: Airy function; Graphic methods; Sea grant program; Wave theory
- Subject Areas: Data and Information Technology; Design; Marine Transportation;
- Accession Number: 00051194
- Record Type: Publication
- Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
- Contract Numbers: NOAA-2-35187
- Files: TRIS
- Created Date: Feb 28 1974 12:00AM