It is shown that the surface wind drift in the ocean substantially reduces the maximum wave height and wave orbital velocity that can be attained before breaking. Incipient breaking is characterized by the occurrence of stagnation points at wave crests, but not by discontinuities in slope. After breaking, there is in the mean flow a stagnation point relative to the wave profile near the crest of the broken wave, on one side of which the water tumbles forward and behind which it recedes more smoothly to the rear. Flow visualization studies indicate the general extent of the wake behind the breaking region; it is shown to be turbulent but momentumless. (Author)

  • Availability:
  • Corporate Authors:

    Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore

    Chesapeake Bay Institute
    Baltimore, MD  United States 
  • Authors:
    • Banner, M L
    • Phillips, O M
  • Publication Date: 1973-7

Media Info

  • Pagination: 31 p.

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00051137
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
  • ISBN: TR-82
  • Report/Paper Numbers: Ref-73-8 Tech Rpt
  • Contract Numbers: N00014-67A-0163-0009
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: Feb 28 1974 12:00AM