SIMULATION OF SAND IN PLUNGING BREAKERS

A numerical model that simulates the sediment transport due to plunging breaking waves has been developed. A plunging breaker is simulated by superimposing a jet on a non-breaking wave. The hydrodynamics are described by applying a discrete vortex model based on the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian description of the cloud-in- cell method. Rotation is introduced in the flow where the jet impinges on the surface and in the boundary layer along the bottom. A combined diffusion-convection procedure provides a Lagrangian description of the suspended sediment. The pickup and initial suspension event in the boundary layer is simulated by a diffusion process, while the transport in the outer flow domain is simulated by convection, using the flow field provided by the hydrodynamic module. The bed-load transport is calculated by a conventional formula that relates the transport rate to the Shields parameter. A simulation over a complex bottom topography is compared to the full- scale laboratory experiments performed by Dette and Uliczka in 1986. The calculated and measured time-averaged concentration profiles show good agreement with respect to the overall concentration levels and the cross-shore distribution.

  • Supplemental Notes:
    • J Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Engng, v 121 n 2, March/April 1995, p 77 [11 p, 21 ref, 13 fig]
  • Authors:
    • PEDERSEN, C
    • Deigaard, R
  • Publication Date: 1995

Language

  • English

Subject/Index Terms

Filing Info

  • Accession Number: 00717439
  • Record Type: Publication
  • Source Agency: British Maritime Technology
  • Files: TRIS
  • Created Date: Mar 4 1996 12:00AM