ON THE INCIPIENT BREAKING OF SMALL SCALE WAVES

It is shown that the surface wind drift in the ocean substantially reduces the maximum wave height and wave orbital velocity that can be attained before breaking. Incipient breaking in a steady wave train is characterized by the occurrence of stagnation points at wave crests, but not necessarily by discontinuities in slope. After breaking, there is in the mean flow a stagnation point relative to the wave profile near the crest of the broken wave, on one side of which the water tumbles forward and behind which recedes more smoothly to the rear. Some simple flow visualization studies indicate the general extent of the wake behind the breaking region.

• Corporate Authors:

  Cambridge University Press

  200 Euston Road
  London NW1,   England 
• Authors:
  • Banner, M L
  • Phillips, O M
• Publication Date: 1974-10-2

Media Info

• Features: References;
• Pagination: p. 647-656
• Serial:
  • Journal of Fluid Mechanics
  • Volume: 65
  • Issue Number: Pt4
  • Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Technology; Water waves; Wave measurement
• Uncontrolled Terms: Breaking waves
• Subject Areas: Design; Hydraulics and Hydrology; Marine Transportation;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00084543
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: Engineering Index
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: May 19 1975 12:00AM