AIRY WAVE THEORY AND BREAKER HEIGHT PREDICTION

The authors examine the applicability of linear airy wave theory to evaluate wave breaker heights. A new relationship is deduced from which the breaker height can be predicted from the deep water wave parameters (wave height and wave period). The theoretical development is set forth and comparison is made with solitary wave theory. The relationship established here is successful over the entire practical range of wave steepness values. It can also replace the empirical curve given by Munk for the intermediate range of wave slope values.

• Supplemental Notes:
  • Pub. in Proceedings of Coastal Engineering Conference, Vancouver, B.C. (Canada), 10-14 Jul 72, p405-418, chpt20.
• Corporate Authors:

  Oregon State University, Corvallis

  Department of Oceanography
  Corvallis, OR  United States  97331
• Authors:
  • Komar, Paul D
  • Gaughan, M K
• Publication Date: 1972

Media Info

• Pagination: 15 p.

Subject/Index Terms

• TRT Terms: Curve fitting; Graphics; Mathematical prediction; Ocean waves; Overtopping; Wave height; Waves
• Identifier Terms: National Sea Grant Program; U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
• Old TRIS Terms: Airy function; Graphic methods; Sea grant program; Wave theory
• Subject Areas: Data and Information Technology; Design; Marine Transportation;

Filing Info

• Accession Number: 00051194
• Record Type: Publication
• Source Agency: National Technical Information Service
• Contract Numbers: NOAA-2-35187
• Files: TRIS
• Created Date: Feb 28 1974 12:00AM